Crossing the Drake Passage: Our Sea Days on the Way to Antarctic
Crossing the Drake Passage is often described as a rite of passage for anyone traveling to Antarctica. Some call it the Drake Lake, others fear the legendary Drake Shake. Either way, the journey itself is a major part of the adventure.
In Part Two of our Journey to Antarctica, we’re taking you along for our sea days aboard the Seabourn Pursuit as we travel from Ushuaia, Argentina, across the Beagle Channel and through the infamous Drake Passage — not once, but twice.
If you’re planning an Antarctica expedition cruise or just curious about what life at sea is really like, this post will give you an honest look at our experience.
From Ushuaia to Open Ocean
We left off in Part One just after boarding the Seabourn Pursuit in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Before even reaching the Drake Passage, we had to navigate the Beagle Channel, which quickly reminded us that the Southern Ocean doesn’t ease you in gently.
From there, it was a day and a half at sea crossing the Drake Passage on our way to Antarctica — and of course, we’d have to cross it again on the return.
Drake Lake or Drake Shake? Our Experience
So how did the Drake Passage treat us?
On a scale from 1 (Drake Lake) to 10 (Drake Shake):
Crossing south: a manageable 3
Crossing north: a rougher 5
Even with relatively mild conditions on the way down, seasickness still got the best of me. On the return crossing, the waves were noticeably stronger, and honestly, we can’t imagine what a true Drake Shake would feel like — nor do we want to.
Why Sea Days Aren’t Boring on an Expedition Cruise
Before this trip, we assumed sea days would be quiet and maybe even dull. We couldn’t have been more wrong.
Every day at sea had a full itinerary, including:
Daily briefings and lectures
Ship exploration
Relaxing in multiple lounges
Entertainment and social activities
Any downtime we did have was usually spent playing around in our suite — including watching the room rock back and forth during rough seas (our unofficial “rocking crib” experience).
Why Ship Size Matters for Antarctica
When choosing a ship for Antarctica, size truly matters.
Due to the Antarctic Treaty:
Only ships with fewer than 500 passengers are allowed to land
Only 100 passengers may be on shore at a time
This means smaller ships offer significantly more time exploring Antarctica.
After extensive research, we landed on the Seabourn Pursuit — what we consider the Goldilocks of expedition ships. With just 264 passengers, it’s small enough for more shore time but large enough to include advanced stabilization, reducing wave impact by up to 80%.
And if you’re going to be at sea for 11 days, comfort matters.
Our Signature Suite (and That Jacuzzi!)
We chose one of the two Signature Suites on the Seabourn Pursuit — the only suites on board with a private jacuzzi on the balcony.
While we did a full suite tour in a separate video (linked below), the jacuzzi was the deciding factor for us. On rough sea days, it was a luxury we truly appreciated.
Life Onboard the Seabourn Pursuit
Testing Gear & Exploring the Ship
Sea days were the perfect time to test out our Antarctica gear and make sure everything fit and felt right before landing on the continent.
We also spent time exploring the ship, which quickly became our floating home.
Free Guest Laundry (A Game Changer)
By the time we boarded the ship, we were already five days into our trip and trying to pack light. One thing we love about expedition cruises is free guest laundry — washers, dryers, detergent, and everything you need are provided.
Just be sure to grab a machine early; they fill up fast.
Lounges, Coffee, and High Tea
The Seabourn Pursuit offers several lounges, all with snacks and drinks included (no drink packages required, except for premium wines and top-shelf liquor).
Highlights included:
Constellation Lounge with daily high tea
Seabourn Square, the social hub for all ages
Expedition Lounge, perfect before and after lectures
Bow Lounge, one of our favorite spots for wave watching and ship data screens
And yes — this is also where you’ll find the coffee ☕.
A Festive Touch at Sea
We crossed the Drake Passage over Christmas, and the ship’s stunning atrium was decorated with a massive Christmas tree, filling the space with natural light and holiday cheer.
Lectures, Briefings & the Discovery Center
Aside from our suite, the Discovery Center was where we spent most of our time. This is where:
Weather briefings took place
Antarctica safety protocols were explained
Educational lectures and entertainment were held
These sessions helped us better understand Antarctica and prepared us for what was ahead.
Dining at Sea (Including Sushi!)
What do you do at sea? You eat — very well.
The Seabourn Pursuit was the first ship we’ve ever sailed on with a full sushi bar, and we loved it. Some nights, instead of a formal dinner, we opted for sushi, beer, and wine — and you can order as much as you want.
Other dining options included:
The main restaurant with nightly rotating menus
Room service, available 24 hours a day
The Colonnade, offering buffet-style breakfast and lunch, plus sit-down dinners
And no need to dress up — elegant casual ranges from jeans to suits.
Staying Active (or Trying To)
The ship’s gym was a great size, though working out while crossing the Drake Passage added an extra challenge we weren’t fully prepared for.
We also toured the submarine hangar, where Seabourn (along with Viking) offers optional passenger submarine dives — a truly unique expedition experience.
Bridge Visits & Behind-the-Scenes Access
At scheduled times, the ship’s bridge was open to guests. We loved chatting with the crew, learning about navigation, and hearing firsthand stories about traveling in Antarctica.
When Seasickness Wins
If you’re anything like me, part of your Drake Passage experience may involve lying in bed, watching the door sway back and forth, while waves crash outside your window.
It’s all part of the journey.
Antarctica on the Horizon
Before you know it, the endless sea gives way to your first glimpse of Antarctica — and suddenly, the Drake Passage becomes a distant memory.
In our next post and video, we finally set foot on the White Continent for the first time.
