Hurtigruten British Isles Expedition Cruise Review: Scotland, Ireland & Beyond
Thinking about a Hurtigruten British Isles expedition cruise? Read our honest review of the MS Spitsbergen, including itinerary highlights in Scotland, Ireland, and Northern Ireland — plus what we loved and what we didn’t.
In 2023, we set off on our very first expedition cruise — an 11-day adventure through Scotland, Ireland, and Northern Ireland with Hurtigruten aboard the MS Spitsbergen (late March). The itinerary promised a mix of whisky tastings, dramatic coastlines, historic castles, and charming towns across the British Isles. But while the destinations blew us away, the cruise experience itself left us with mixed feelings.
If you’re considering a Hurtigruten British Isles cruise, here’s everything you need to know — from the ports we loved to the frustrations we faced.
Itinerary Overview
Our route started in Glasgow (Greenock) and looped through:
Portrush, Northern Ireland – home to the legendary Giant’s Causeway
Belfast – with the unforgettable Titanic Museum
Isle of Man – quirky, historic, and full of surprises
Dublin, Ireland – Guinness and more Guinness (even in a rush!)
Isle of Arran – castles, fairy houses, and our favorite hike of the trip
Tobermory – zodiac wildlife spotting and colorful harbor views
Fort William – Scottish Highlands, Loch Shiel & Harry Potter landmarks
Oban – gateway to Glencoe’s rugged beauty
Islay – peaty whiskies at Lagavulin & Ardbeg
Returning to Glasgow
The ports were the highlight of our journey, each offering a new piece of history, nature, or culture.
Life Onboard the MS Spitsbergen
The Spitsbergen is a small expedition ship (capacity ~220 guests), refurbished in 2016. A few quick impressions:
Cabins: Compact, functional, but beware — some seventh-floor rooms face public walkways, so you’ll be closing your blinds a lot.
Common spaces: Limited lounges, quiet atmosphere, and a bar that’s not included. If you’re looking for lively evenings, you won’t find them here.
Science Center: Promised more than it delivered — we only saw a handful of activities like a photography class.
Dining: Wine is included with dinner, but other drinks require a pricey package. Tip: ask for wine with dessert so you can carry it elsewhere.
Excursions & App: The biggest frustration. Optional excursions could only be booked onboard using a confusing “one-sheet system” and an app that updated late at night. For planners, this was chaotic.
Price-wise, we booked in 2022 for about $5,000 per person. Today, the same cabin runs closer to $8,000 per person— a steep increase for what’s included.
Highlights From the Ports
Despite frustrations onboard, the ports completely saved this trip:
🌊 Giant’s Causeway – surreal basalt columns with both science and folklore stories.
🏰 Dunluce Castle – dramatic cliffside ruins.
🚢 Titanic Museum (Belfast) – one of the best museums we’ve ever visited.
🍻 Crown Liquor Saloon – historic Belfast pub with traditional cask ales.
🚂 Isle of Man Steam Railway – charming step back into history.
🍺 Guinness Storehouse (Dublin) – even in a rushed visit, a must-do.
🧚 Isle of Arran – unexpected gem with fairy houses, Glen Rosa hike, and a local brewery at the trail’s end.
🦭 Tobermory – zodiac rides and curious seals.
🏔 Fort William – gondola to the Nevis Range & Loch Shiel (Harry Potter fans, you’ll recognize it!).
🥃 Islay – Lagavulin & Ardbeg tastings — whisky heaven.
Post-Cruise Bonus: Scotland Road Trip
After disembarking, we rented a car, stayed at a cozy Airbnb south of Glasgow (complete with sheep, kayaking, and an outdoor bath), and even squeezed in an overnight in London. A spontaneous stop at The Royal Standard of Englandpub was the perfect storybook ending.
Final Thoughts: Would We Recommend It?
The British Isles themselves were incredible — full of history, scenery, and warmth. Cruising made it convenient to hop between islands without constant packing and unpacking.
But the Hurtigruten British Isles Expedition Cruise? We wouldn’t recommend it.
Disorganized excursions & chaotic booking system
Limited onboard activities and energy
Off-season closures at key attractions
Quiet, almost too subdued atmosphere
If you’re set on exploring the British Isles, we suggest either:
Waiting until late spring or summer for better weather & open attractions
Considering another cruise line or planning your own land + ferry itinerary
Still, the ports themselves made this a memorable trip, and the whisky, castles, and landscapes will stay with us forever.
